Router Bit Speed vs Diameter Physics
A router spinning at 22,000 RPM sounds fast until you calculate what that means for the cutting edges themselves. The motor turns the collet at that fixed rate, but the actual speed at which carbide contacts wood depends entirely on how far from the center those cutting edges sit. Double the bit diameter and you don't just double the cutting speed - the physics work exponentially because you're increasing the circumference the edge must travel with each revolution.
Understanding why router bits burn wood requires recognizing that tip speed, not motor RPM, determines friction and heat generation at the cutting edge.
The Mathematics of Tip Speed
Calculating how fast a router bit's cutting edge moves through space requires just one formula: tip speed equals pi times diameter times RPM, divided by 12 to convert from inches per minute to feet per minute. Or divided by 720 to get feet per second. The math is straightforward, but the implications are significant.
A quarter-inch straight bit spinning at 22,000 RPM has its cutting edge traveling at 14,400 feet per minute, or 240 feet per second. That's roughly 164 miles per hour. Fast, but manageable for the carbide and the wood.
Increase to a half-inch bit at the same 22,000 RPM. The diameter doubled, so the tip speed doubles: 28,800 feet per minute, or 480 feet per second. That's 327 miles per hour. The motor is turning at exactly the same rate, but the cutting edge is moving twice as fast because it has to travel twice as far around the circumference with each revolution.
Now consider a two-inch raised panel bit at 22,000 RPM. The cutting edges travel 115,200 feet per minute - 1,920 feet per second, or 1,309 miles per hour. The carbide tips are moving faster than the speed of sound. That's not an exaggeration. A large bit at full router speed has supersonic cutting edges.
The relationship is linear with diameter but the effects on heat generation are not. Friction increases with speed, and heat generation from friction increases exponentially. A cutting edge moving at 1,300 mph doesn't just create twice the friction of one moving at 650 mph - it creates several times more heat because the increased speed amplifies every interaction between carbide and wood.
Centrifugal Force on Cutting Edges
Beyond the heat from friction, high tip speeds create mechanical stresses on the bit itself through centrifugal force. The carbide tips brazed onto the steel body want to fly outward from the center of rotation. At low speeds this force is negligible. At very high speeds with large-diameter bits, the force becomes substantial.
Centrifugal force equals mass times radius times the square of angular velocity. The radius increases linearly with diameter, but the force increases with the square of the spin rate. A large bit spinning fast experiences tremendous outward force on its carbide tips.
This force doesn't usually tear the tips off - brazing is strong enough to handle it. But the force does stress the braze joint and the carbide itself. Repeated thermal cycling from heating during cuts and cooling between cuts, combined with mechanical stress from centrifugal force, can eventually cause braze joints to fail. The carbide tip separates from the steel body. This happens more often with large bits run at excessive speeds than with small bits, purely because of the greater centrifugal forces involved.
The stress also affects cutting performance. Carbide under tension from centrifugal force cuts differently than unstressed carbide. The material properties change slightly under load. At extreme speeds, the carbide edge may deflect microscopically outward during the cut, changing the effective cutting geometry. These are subtle effects, but they contribute to why large bits perform poorly at speeds designed for small bits.
Surface Speed vs Material Removal
The speed at which the cutting edge moves matters less than how that speed relates to the amount of material being removed. This is where feed rate and bit diameter interact.
A quarter-inch bit at high speed taking small bites cuts efficiently. The carbide edge encounters wood, slices through, and moves on before significant heat builds up. The high speed means many cuts per second, but each cut is brief and removes a small amount of material. Heat generation per cut is low, and the cumulative heat from many rapid cuts stays manageable because each individual interaction is efficient.
Scale up to a two-inch bit at the same high speed and the physics change. The cutting edge moves much faster, but it's also presented with much more material per revolution if you maintain the same feed rate. The bit has to remove more wood per unit time. More material removal means more friction, which means more heat.
But you can't simply slow the feed rate to reduce material removal per revolution. Slowing feed increases contact time, which allows heat to build up regardless of cutting efficiency. The solution is to reduce router speed so that tip velocity comes down to reasonable ranges while maintaining a feed rate that keeps contact time short.
This is why variable-speed routers exist. Professional woodworkers routinely run large bits at 10,000-14,000 RPM instead of 22,000. The lower speed brings tip velocity down from supersonic to merely very fast - perhaps 600-800 mph instead of 1,300. That reduction in surface speed decreases friction and heat generation substantially while still allowing efficient cutting.
Diameter and Efficient Cutting Zones
Every router bit diameter has an optimal speed range where cutting is most efficient. Too slow and the bit rubs rather than cuts. Too fast and friction heat overwhelms the system. The optimal zone shifts with diameter.
Small bits - quarter-inch and half-inch diameters - work well at high speeds. Their low mass and small circumference mean they don't generate excessive heat even at 22,000 RPM. The high speed produces clean cuts with minimal burning in most materials. These bits can run at full router speed without problems.
Medium bits - three-quarter inch to one inch diameter - benefit from moderate speed reduction. Full speed works but isn't optimal. Dropping to 18,000-20,000 RPM reduces heat generation without sacrificing surface finish. The bit still cuts cleanly but with less friction per foot of cutting edge travel.
Large bits - one and a half inches to three inches - need substantial speed reduction. Running these bits at full speed creates so much friction heat that burning is almost inevitable regardless of feed rate or material. The tip speeds are simply too high for efficient cutting. Reduce speed to 10,000-14,000 RPM and these bits cut cleanly, producing smooth surfaces without scorch marks.
The largest bits - panel raisers, large cove bits, architectural molding bits over three inches - should never run faster than 12,000 RPM and often perform best at 8,000-10,000 RPM. At these reduced speeds, the tip velocity is similar to a small bit at full speed. The cutting becomes efficient again, heat stays manageable, and burning stops being a constant problem.
The Two-Flute vs Four-Flute Factor
Bit diameter isn't the only variable affecting optimal speed. The number of flutes also matters because it determines how frequently each point on the cut line encounters a cutting edge.
A two-flute bit makes two cuts per revolution. At 22,000 RPM, that's 44,000 cuts per minute. Each cut takes a specific bite of material determined by feed rate. The wood between cuts has time to cool slightly before the next flute arrives.
A four-flute bit makes four cuts per revolution - 88,000 cuts per minute at 22,000 RPM. Each individual cut takes a smaller bite (half as much at the same feed rate), but the cutting edges return to the same location twice as frequently. Less cooling time between cuts means heat accumulates more readily.
Four-flute bits generally need slower speeds than two-flute bits of the same diameter to avoid burning. The increased cutting frequency compounds the heat generation. Reducing speed gives the wood more time between cuts to dissipate heat. The trade-off is that four-flute bits produce smoother surfaces at moderate speeds because the closer spacing of cuts creates finer scallops in the surface pattern.
Single-flute bits cut once per revolution. They can run at very high speeds without burning because cooling time between cuts is maximum. But single-flute bits are uncommon in woodworking - they're mainly used in plastics and soft materials where chip evacuation is more important than surface finish.
Material Properties and Speed Tolerance
Different woods tolerate high bit speeds differently. Dense hardwoods can handle faster tip speeds because their tight fiber structure resists the cutting force without excessive deflection or heating. The wood conducts heat reasonably well and doesn't contain components that melt easily. Maple, oak, and cherry route cleanly even with moderately oversized bits at full speed.
Softwoods present more variation. Pine, fir, and cedar have lower density and significant resin content. High speeds generate enough friction heat to melt the resin, which then adheres to the carbide and creates buildup. The buildup increases friction, generates more heat, melts more resin - a feedback loop. Resin buildup on cutting edges affects efficiency independent of initial tip speed, but high speeds make the problem worse by generating heat faster.
Plywood burns at high speeds regardless of the face veneer species because of the glue between plies. The adhesive melts at lower temperatures than wood chars. Fast-moving carbide generates enough heat to liquefy the glue even with brief contact. The melted adhesive sticks to the bit, creates buildup, and makes carbide tips dull faster in plywood than in solid wood. Reducing speed helps but doesn't eliminate the problem - plywood glue always presents challenges for router bits.
MDF contains adhesive binder throughout its entire structure. There's no speed range where you avoid contact with glue. Fast speeds burn the binder. Slow speeds allow prolonged contact that also burns the binder. MDF routing requires accepting that some burning is inevitable and mitigating it through sharp bits and proper feed rates rather than trying to find a magic speed setting.
End grain routing generates more heat than face grain or edge grain work because the bit must sever fibers perpendicular to their length. End grain heat generation is substantial even at moderate speeds. Reducing bit speed helps control this, but end grain will always present more challenge than long grain routing of the same species.
Speed and Bit Longevity
The relationship between router speed and bit life isn't as straightforward as "slower is always better." Bits wear through multiple mechanisms, and speed affects each differently.
Abrasive wear occurs when hard particles in the wood grind away the carbide cutting edge. This happens at any speed but accelerates with higher speeds because more material passes over the edge per unit time. Reducing speed reduces abrasive wear proportionally.
Thermal wear occurs when the carbide gets hot enough that its material properties degrade. Carbide maintains hardness and sharpness up to certain temperatures, but extended time above those thresholds causes the surface to break down. High speeds generate more heat, increasing thermal wear. Excessive speeds can thermally damage carbide even with proper feed rates.
But running too slowly creates its own wear mechanism. When bits rub rather than cut cleanly, the carbide edge sees high friction without effective material removal. The rubbing burnishes and rounds the edge even though the bit isn't removing much wood. A bit run too slowly for its diameter can dull faster than one run at optimal speed because it's working inefficiently.
The optimal speed for bit longevity matches the optimal speed for efficient cutting. Fast enough that the bit cuts cleanly without excessive rubbing. Slow enough that friction heat stays below damaging thresholds. For small bits that's near full router speed. For large bits it's substantially slower.
Variable Speed Router Operation
Variable-speed routers let you match motor RPM to bit diameter, but they require understanding how to select appropriate speeds. Most variable-speed routers have a range from about 8,000 to 22,000 RPM. Some go as low as 5,000 RPM for very large bits.
The general rule is to reduce speed by roughly 2,000 RPM for each half-inch increase in bit diameter beyond one inch. A one-inch bit runs at 18,000-20,000 RPM. A one-and-a-half-inch bit runs at 16,000-18,000 RPM. A two-inch bit runs at 14,000-16,000 RPM. Larger bits drop further - three-inch bits might run at 10,000-12,000 RPM.
These are starting points, not absolute rules. Actual optimal speed depends on bit design, material being cut, and feed rate. A sharp bit in maple might run faster than these guidelines. A dull bit in pine might need slower speeds. The goal is to find the speed where cutting is efficient, surface finish is good, and burning doesn't occur.
Router speed also affects power delivery. Electric motors develop maximum torque at specific RPM ranges. Universal motors in routers generally provide good torque across their speed range, but peak power occurs at higher speeds. Running at very low speeds reduces available power. A large bit at 8,000 RPM might bog down in hardwood if the router lacks sufficient power. Maintaining slightly higher speed - perhaps 10,000 RPM - keeps the motor in its power band while still reducing tip speed compared to running the bit at 22,000 RPM.
The Brake Effect of Material Contact
When a spinning router bit contacts wood, the cutting resistance creates a braking effect that slightly reduces actual operating speed. The amount of speed reduction depends on router power, bit diameter, and material hardness.
A small bit in soft wood creates minimal braking. The router maintains speed close to its no-load RPM. A large bit hogging through hardwood creates substantial resistance. The router slows noticeably during the cut. Less powerful routers show more speed reduction than high-power models.
This braking effect matters for heat generation because actual tip speed during cutting is lower than calculated tip speed at no-load RPM. A two-inch bit rated at 14,000 RPM might actually operate at 12,500-13,000 RPM during heavy cuts. The reduction in tip speed helps control heat generation, but it also means the bit is working less efficiently because it's cutting at speeds below optimal.
High-power routers (3+ horsepower) maintain speed better under load. The motor has enough torque to overcome cutting resistance without significant RPM drop. This consistent speed produces more uniform cuts but also requires attention to heat generation because the bit doesn't naturally slow down during heavy cuts like it would with a less powerful router.
Electronic speed control on modern routers attempts to maintain constant speed under varying load by adjusting power delivery. The motor controller senses RPM drop and increases current to compensate. This helps maintain cutting efficiency but means the router will always try to keep tip speed at the set point regardless of cutting resistance. You get consistent results but need to actively manage feed rate to control heat since the router won't slow down as a natural limiting factor.
Bit Design and Speed Tolerance
Not all bits of the same diameter handle high speeds equally. Bit design affects how efficiently they cut and how much heat they generate at given speeds.
Straight-flute bits have cutting edges parallel to the bit axis. They take perpendicular bites of material. Shear-cut bits angle the cutting edge so it slices through wood at an angle rather than hitting perpendicular. The shear angle reduces cutting force and generates less heat at the same speed. Shear-cut bits can often run faster than straight-flute bits of the same diameter without burning.
Down-shear bits push chips toward the table or work surface. Up-shear bits push chips up and out. The chip direction affects cooling efficiency. Bits that evacuate chips effectively carry heat away from the cutting zone. Bits with poor chip clearance trap hot chips near the cutting edge, raising temperatures. Spiral bits with deep flute gullets clear chips better than straight bits, allowing slightly higher speeds without burning.
Bearing-guided pattern bits add a second variable through bearing friction. A seized or rough bearing creates heat independent of cutting action. That bearing friction heat conducts into the bit body, preheating it before the cutting edge touches wood. Bearing-guided bits often need slower speeds than equivalent non-bearing bits to compensate for the additional heat source.
Solid carbide bits can tolerate higher speeds than carbide-tipped steel bits because carbide conducts heat better than steel. The entire bit body acts as a heat sink, pulling heat away from the cutting edges more efficiently. Solid carbide bits also maintain dimensional stability at high temperatures better than bi-metal constructions where the steel and carbide expand at different rates.
Practical Speed Selection
Selecting router speed for a specific operation requires considering bit diameter, material properties, and desired surface finish simultaneously. There's rarely a single "correct" speed - instead there's a range where cutting works acceptably.
Start with a baseline speed based on bit diameter using the guidelines mentioned earlier. Run the bit through a test cut in scrap material of the same species you'll be working. Observe surface finish, listen for cutting sounds, and check for burning.
Smooth surface with no burning indicates you're in the acceptable range. You might be able to increase speed slightly for better efficiency or decrease it for better surface finish, but major changes aren't needed.
Burning without chatter marks means speed is too high or feed rate is too slow. Reduce router speed by 2,000 RPM and try again. If burning persists, reduce another 2,000 RPM. Continue until burning stops.
Chatter marks or rough surface without burning suggests speed is too low. The bit is rubbing rather than cutting cleanly. Increase speed by 2,000 RPM. Be careful here - if the bit was barely not burning at the previous speed, increasing might push it over into burning. Make small adjustments.
Burning plus chatter indicates multiple problems. The bit might be dull, the router might lack power for that combination of bit and material, or you're trying to feed too fast for conditions. Address bit sharpness first, then experiment with speed and feed combinations.
The optimal speed often differs between routing operations even with the same bit. Edge profiling might work at higher speeds than mortising because edge work removes less material per pass. Template routing with bearing friction might need lower speeds than freehand work. Climb cutting can sometimes tolerate higher speeds than conventional feeding because of the more efficient cutting action.
Experience with specific bit and material combinations builds intuition about appropriate speeds. But even experienced woodworkers test-cut in scrap when conditions change - new bit, different wood species, unfamiliar router. The physics of tip speed and heat generation remain constant, but the variables that determine optimal settings shift enough that testing is always worthwhile.
FAQ
What RPM should I use for a 2-inch router bit? Most two-inch bits run best at 12,000-14,000 RPM. This produces tip speeds around 650-750 mph, reducing friction heat compared to full-speed operation while maintaining efficient cutting.
Why do large router bits need slower speeds? Larger diameter means cutting edges travel farther per revolution. At the same RPM, a two-inch bit has edges moving four times faster than a half-inch bit. Higher speeds generate exponentially more friction and heat.
Can I damage a router by running it too slowly? Running a router at low speeds under heavy load can strain the motor and potentially overheat it, but this rarely damages modern routers with electronic speed control. The greater risk is poor cutting performance and premature bit dulling from inefficient material removal.
Do single-speed routers work with large bits? Single-speed routers at 22,000 RPM can't safely run bits over about one-and-a-half inches diameter. The tip speeds become excessive, creating dangerous heat and potential bit failure. Variable-speed routers are necessary for larger bits.
How do I calculate router bit tip speed? Multiply pi (3.14159) times bit diameter in inches times RPM, then divide by 12 for feet per minute or by 720 for feet per second. A one-inch bit at 20,000 RPM: 3.14159 × 1 × 20,000 / 12 = 5,236 feet per minute.
Why does my router bog down at low speeds? Electric motors produce less torque at lower speeds. Large bits removing substantial material at low speeds can exceed available motor torque, causing the router to bog down. Increasing speed slightly keeps the motor in its power band.
Should I adjust speed for different woods? Dense hardwoods tolerate higher speeds than softwoods. Resinous woods like pine benefit from moderate speed reduction to minimize resin melting. Very soft woods sometimes need higher speeds to cut cleanly without tearout.
Do bearing-guided bits need different speeds? Bearing-guided bits often benefit from slightly reduced speeds because bearing friction adds heat to the system independent of cutting action. If bearing friction is high, compensating with lower router speed helps prevent burning.