Fret Saw vs Jeweler's Saw

Pick up a fret saw and a jeweler's saw and you're looking at what appears to be the same tool. Deep U-shaped frame, thin blade held between two clamps, adjustable tension mechanism. The silhouettes are nearly identical. But put them to work and the differences emerge fast, not in how they look but in what they're designed to cut.

The terms get used interchangeably in casual conversation, and that confusion makes sense given the visual similarity. But the design priorities diverge based on whether you're cutting wood veneer or precious metal, and those priorities show up in frame dimensions, blade specifications, and the scale of work each tool handles best.

Frame Size and Working Capacity

Fret saws typically have throat depths running from 10 to 20 inches. That's the measurement from the blade to the back of the frame, and it determines how far into a workpiece you can reach. A 16-inch throat means you can cut 16 inches in from any edge before the frame hits the opposite side.

Jeweler's saws cluster in a smaller range. Most frames have throats between 3 and 6 inches. The compact size makes sense when you consider that jewelry work involves small pieces. A pendant blank might measure 2 inches across. A ring shank is smaller still. The shallow throat keeps the frame compact and easier to control when working at that scale.

The frame depth affects more than just reach. It changes the tool's balance and how it feels in your hand. A deep-throated fret saw has significant mass behind the blade, and that weight creates momentum. When you're making long cutting strokes through wood, that momentum helps maintain rhythm. A jeweler's saw with its shorter frame feels more nimble, more responsive to small adjustments, which matters when you're cutting intricate patterns in metal.

Frame adjustability differs too. Many jeweler's saws have fully adjustable frames that can accommodate different blade lengths. You loosen the tension mechanism, slide the frame pieces to the desired length, insert the blade, and lock everything down. This adjustability lets you use broken blades by shortening the frame to match the remaining blade length. Fret saws more commonly have fixed frames designed for standard blade lengths, though some models offer adjustment.

Blade Gauge Systems

Fret saw blades are typically sold by teeth per inch. You'll see blades labeled as 15 TPI, 20 TPI, 25 TPI, and so on up to 32 TPI or finer. The tooth count tells you how aggressive the cut will be and what surface finish to expect.

Jeweler's saw blades use a different numbering system based on gauge. The scale runs from 8/0 (extremely fine) through 0, then 1, 2, 3, and up to 14 (very coarse). The number doesn't directly translate to teeth per inch because the gauge system also accounts for blade thickness and width. A 2/0 blade is thinner and finer than a size 1 blade, but the relationship isn't linear like TPI measurements.

This gauge system evolved from metalworking traditions where blade thickness mattered as much as tooth count. When you're cutting silver or gold, the kerf width directly affects material waste. Precious metals are expensive enough that a difference of 0.005 inches in kerf width has real cost implications. The gauge system captures both cutting characteristics and material removal in a single number.

Converting between the systems isn't straightforward. A jeweler's saw blade in size 2/0 might have roughly 50 teeth per inch and measure 0.010 inches wide. A size 1 blade might have 30 teeth per inch and measure 0.015 inches wide. But these correlations vary by manufacturer, and the gauge number includes characteristics beyond just tooth count.

Material Differences in Blades

Fret saw blades are designed for wood, though they'll cut other materials. The tooth geometry reflects this. The teeth have a rake angle and set pattern optimized for severing wood fibers. The steel hardness balances sharpness retention against brittleness, recognizing that wood is softer than metal but requires sustained cutting to get through thicker stock.

Jeweler's saw blades are made for metal. The teeth are configured differently, with geometries that chip away at metal rather than slicing through fibers. The steel is harder and more brittle than fret saw blades because metal cutting demands sharper cutting edges that stay sharp longer. The increased brittleness is acceptable because jewelry work happens at small scales where the forces involved are lower.

You can use jeweler's saw blades in a fret saw frame and vice versa if the blade lengths match and the clamps can grip them. Some woodworkers use jeweler's saw blades for extremely fine work in wood, accepting the higher cost for the extra fineness. Some jewelers use fret saw blades for cutting non-precious metals where cost matters more than ultimate precision.

The blade steel also affects flexibility. Jeweler's saw blades are generally less flexible than fret saw blades of similar dimensions. This reduced flexibility helps when cutting metal because metal doesn't compress or deflect the way wood does. Wood has some give to it, and a slightly flexible blade can negotiate variations in grain density without breaking. Metal is more uniform, so blade flexibility is less critical.

Tooth Pattern and Cutting Action

Fret saw blade teeth are set alternately to the left and right of the blade centerline. This creates a kerf wider than the blade thickness, which gives clearance for the blade body to move through the cut without binding. The set amount varies with blade coarseness, with coarser blades having more set to accommodate faster cutting and increased sawdust production.

Jeweler's saw blade teeth have minimal set or sometimes no set at all. The finest jeweler's saw blades cut a kerf barely wider than the blade thickness. This matters in metal cutting because metal doesn't compress. Wood can be squeezed slightly by a blade passing through, but metal can't. The lack of set means jeweler's saw blades cut more slowly in wood than fret saw blades of similar TPI would.

The tooth pitch consistency differs too. Fret saw blades maintain relatively consistent tooth spacing along the length of the blade. Jeweler's saw blades, especially in the finer gauges, sometimes have variable tooth spacing to reduce harmonic vibration when cutting metal. Metal cutting can set up resonances that cause blade chatter, and variable tooth spacing disrupts those resonances.

Tension Requirements

Both tools rely on blade tension to work properly, but the tension amounts differ. Fret saws need enough tension to keep the blade straight during cutting but not so much that the frame deforms or the blade snaps from pre-load stress. The frame acts as a spring, and the clamping mechanism transfers that spring force to the blade.

Jeweler's saws require similar tension principles but the absolute forces are lower because the blades are shorter. A 3-inch blade needs less total tension than a 5-inch blade to achieve the same stiffness. The shorter frame also means less frame flex and spring rate variation, which makes consistent tensioning easier.

The adjustment mechanisms vary. Many fret saws use threaded rods or wing nuts to adjust frame tension. You tighten the mechanism, which draws the two ends of the frame together, which increases blade tension. Jeweler's saws often use similar systems but scaled down. Some use quick-release mechanisms where you compress the frame slightly, lock the blade in place, then release the compression to create tension.

Getting the tension right matters more than people expect. Too loose and the blade wanders during cutting, making accurate curves impossible. Too tight and the blade is stressed to near its breaking point before you even start cutting. The correct tension produces a blade that's rigid in the cutting direction but can still flex slightly if twisted. Finding that balance takes practice with either tool.

Scale of Work

Fret saws are built for cutting patterns in material up to about 1/4 inch thick, sometimes up to 1/2 inch with patience. The typical workpiece might be a marquetry veneer panel, a decorative fretwork panel, or components for small wooden boxes. The work is detailed but happens at a scale where you're looking at the overall piece, not examining it under magnification.

Jeweler's saws work at finer scales. A jewelry maker might be cutting a 0.020-inch thick sheet of silver, piercing out spaces for settings, or creating filigree patterns where the metal strips are 0.030 inches wide. The level of detail approaches what you'd need magnification to fully appreciate. The saw needs to make cuts that precise, which means blade widths, tooth fineness, and control precision all operate at tighter tolerances.

This scale difference affects everything else. The jeweler's saw frame is shorter because the workpieces are smaller. The blades are finer because the details are smaller. The cutting technique is more delicate because there's less margin for error. Woodworking with hand tools involves similar precision considerations, but at a different scale.

Material Thickness Capabilities

Fret saws can handle wood up to about 1/2 inch thick with standard blades, more with coarser blades and patient work. The limitation isn't the frame or blade length but rather the tooth configuration and manual effort required. Cutting 1/2 inch hardwood with a 25 TPI blade is slow work because each tooth removes a tiny amount of material.

Jeweler's saws are designed for thinner material. Most jewelry work happens in metal sheets between 0.015 and 0.080 inches thick. The finest jeweler's saw blades can cut metal as thin as 0.010 inches without distorting it. Thicker metal is possible but unusual in jewelry work. If you need to cut 1/4 inch metal plate, you're using different tools entirely.

The throat depth affects thickness capacity indirectly. A deep throat lets you reach farther into a workpiece, but if the workpiece is thick, you need enough blade exposure below the frame to accommodate that thickness plus enough length to cut comfortably. Jeweler's saws with their short throats aren't meant for thick materials, and fret saws with their longer blades can handle more thickness before the blade exposure becomes a limiting factor.

Cutting Speed and Effort

Fret saws cut wood at a moderate pace. The manual effort is constant, and the cutting speed depends on tooth count, wood density, and how much force you apply. A practiced user might make 40 to 60 cutting strokes per minute, and each stroke advances the cut by a small amount. Dense hardwoods slow everything down.

Jeweler's saws cut metal much more slowly than fret saws cut wood. Metal is harder and denser than wood, and the cutting action is more about abrading away material than slicing through fibers. A jeweler might make similar stroke rates as a woodworker, but each stroke removes less material. Cutting a 2-inch curve in 0.040-inch silver might take several minutes of continuous sawing.

The physical effort differs too. Wood cutting with a fret saw requires moderate pressure to maintain the cutting action. Too light and the blade skips across the surface. Too heavy and the blade deflects or breaks. Metal cutting with a jeweler's saw requires lighter pressure but more strokes. The blade does the work through repeated abrasive action rather than aggressive fiber severing.

Blade Breakage Patterns

Both tools break blades regularly. The thin blades and fine teeth make them fragile regardless of what you're cutting. But the failure modes differ slightly based on the materials involved.

Fret saw blades in wood often break from lateral pressure when navigating tight curves. The wood compresses slightly as you turn, and if you push too hard or turn too sharply, the blade flexes beyond its limit and snaps. The break usually happens near the clamps where the blade is constrained on one side and free on the other.

Jeweler's saw blades break more often from fatigue. Metal doesn't give the way wood does, so every cutting stroke puts the blade under consistent stress. After thousands of strokes, the metal fatigues and breaks even without any obvious user error. The breaks happen anywhere along the blade length, not just near the clamps.

The blade cost makes breakage more significant with jeweler's saw blades. Fine gauge blades for precious metal work cost more than wood-cutting fret saw blades. The increased cost is justified by the tighter tolerances and harder steel, but it means each broken blade represents more monetary loss.

Workpiece Support Methods

Fret saw work typically uses a V-board or bird's mouth cutting table. The V-shaped notch supports the workpiece on both sides of the blade while providing clearance for the saw to move. The wood piece sits flat on the V-board, and you saw vertically downward. The support prevents the thin wood from flexing or chattering during cutting.

Jeweler's saw work uses a jeweler's bench pin, which is similar in concept but scaled for smaller work. The bench pin is a wedge-shaped piece of wood that clamps to your workbench edge. It has a V-notch cut into it, and the metal workpiece sits on the pin while you saw. The metal is often supported by your fingers on top of the bench pin, giving you direct tactile feedback about what the saw is doing.

The support methods reflect the scale differences. A V-board for fret saw work might be 6 inches wide and designed to support wood panels up to 1/4 inch thick. A jeweler's bench pin might be 2 inches wide and designed for metal pieces measured in millimeters. Both serve the same function but at different scales.

Handle Design and Ergonomics

Fret saw handles are typically 4 to 6 inches long and designed for a full-hand grip. You wrap your hand around the handle and the saw becomes an extension of your arm. The cutting motion comes from shoulder and elbow movement, with your wrist staying relatively straight. This ergonomic setup works for cutting patterns where you might be sawing continuously for 10 or 15 minutes at a stretch.

Jeweler's saw handles are shorter, often 3 to 4 inches, and designed for a lighter grip. Many jewelers hold the saw more like a pencil than a saw, with the handle resting against the palm and fingers controlling the motion. The cutting action comes more from wrist movement than shoulder movement. This lighter grip makes sense for detailed work where control matters more than cutting speed.

The handle materials vary too. Fret saws often have wooden handles, sometimes with brass or steel ferrules. Jeweler's saws might have wooden handles but also commonly use turned metal or hard plastic handles. The material matters less than the shape and size for the intended grip style.

Frame Rigidity and Flex

Fret saw frames need enough rigidity to maintain blade tension without bending under the spring load, but they also benefit from some controlled flex. The frame acts as the spring that tensions the blade, so some flex is inherent to the design. Higher quality fret saws use materials and geometries that minimize unwanted flex while allowing the necessary spring action.

Jeweler's saw frames can be more rigid because the blade lengths are shorter and the required spring force is lower. A rigid frame gives more consistent blade tension and better control when making fine cuts. Some jeweler's saw frames use very stiff materials like high-carbon steel or even titanium to maximize rigidity while minimizing weight.

The frame cross-section matters too. Fret saw frames often use round or oval tubing. Jeweler's saw frames sometimes use flat stock or I-beam profiles that provide rigidity in the direction of blade tension while remaining light. The engineering is similar to tool design principles where material and geometry work together to achieve specific performance goals.

The Naming Confusion

The terms "fret saw" and "jeweler's saw" are used inconsistently in casual conversation and even in tool catalogs. Some people call any fine-bladed frame saw a fret saw regardless of size. Others reserve "jeweler's saw" exclusively for the smallest frames and call everything else a fret saw. Tool manufacturers sometimes label the same tool differently depending on which market they're targeting.

The confusion is understandable given how similar the tools look. The functional differences are real but not obvious from appearance alone. A 5-inch throat saw could be called either a small fret saw or a large jeweler's saw depending on who's selling it and what they expect you to cut with it.

The historical origins also overlap. Both tools evolved from older frame saw designs, and both found their niches in detailed work where fine blades were necessary. The divergence happened gradually as woodworkers and jewelers each refined the tools for their specific needs. The names stuck based on traditional usage patterns rather than any formal specification.

Blade Availability and Cost

Fret saw blades are widely available from woodworking suppliers, hardware stores, and online retailers. A pack of a dozen blades might cost $5 to $15 depending on quality and tooth count. The blades are standardized enough that different brands are largely interchangeable if the lengths match your frame.

Jeweler's saw blades are less common in general retail but readily available from jewelry supply companies and online. A pack of a dozen fine gauge blades might cost $10 to $25, with the finest gauges at the higher end of that range. The gauge system is standardized, so a 2/0 blade from one manufacturer will work the same as a 2/0 from another.

The cost difference reflects the manufacturing precision and intended use. Jeweler's saw blades need tighter tolerances because they're cutting expensive materials where mistakes are costly. Fret saw blades can tolerate slightly more variation because wood is more forgiving and less expensive than precious metals.

Technique and Learning Curve

Learning to use a fret saw effectively takes practice. You need to develop a feel for how much pressure to apply, how fast to stroke, when to ease off in tight curves, and how to read the blade's feedback. The learning happens over hours of cutting, with plenty of broken blades along the way. Most people achieve basic competence quickly but continue refining their technique for years.

Jeweler's saw technique is similar but requires even more delicacy. The finer blades break more easily, and the harder metal provides less forgiveness for mistakes. Jewelry students often go through dozens of blades while learning to cut simple patterns. The technique involves lighter touch, slower cutting, and more attention to blade angle and feed rate than wood cutting requires.

Both tools reward smooth, consistent motion over aggressive cutting. Rushing either one leads to broken blades and ruined work. The techniques overlap enough that someone skilled with one tool can usually figure out the other with some experimentation, though the scale change requires adjustment.

When the Tools Overlap

Despite their different design priorities, fret saws and jeweler's saws can sometimes substitute for each other. A woodworker doing extremely fine inlay work might use jeweler's saw blades in a fret saw frame to get finer cuts than standard fret saw blades allow. A jeweler working with softer metals like copper might use fret saw blades because they cut faster and cost less than fine gauge jeweler's blades.

The overlap works best in the middle range where the materials and scales aren't at either extreme. Cutting 1/8 inch wood with precise curves falls into this zone, as does cutting soft metal sheet in non-critical applications. Either tool can handle it, and the choice might come down to which one you already own rather than which one is technically better suited.

The tools can't substitute for each other at the extremes. A jeweler's saw won't effectively cut 1/2 inch hardwood because the frame is too short and the fine blades would break constantly. A fret saw won't cut intricate patterns in 0.020-inch silver with the precision needed for fine jewelry because the blades are too coarse and the frame too unwieldy for that scale of work.

The Purpose-Built Reality

At the core, jeweler's saws are scaled-down versions of fret saws, optimized for smaller workpieces and harder materials. The frame is shorter because the work is smaller. The blades are finer because the details are finer. The whole tool operates at a different scale even though the basic principles remain the same.

Calling them the same tool isn't exactly wrong, but it misses the point. They're variations on a theme, each refined for specific applications through decades of use. A jeweler could struggle through with a fret saw, and a woodworker could manage with a jeweler's saw for some tasks, but having the right tool scaled to your work makes everything easier.

The naming confusion persists because the tools look so similar and because the line between them isn't sharp. But spend time with both and the differences become obvious not through appearance but through how they feel in your hand and what they accomplish in different materials. The tools might look identical hanging on the wall, but they reveal their differences in use.